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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:49:11 GMT -5
The Thai That Binds (26-Feb,2010)
In the past month or so I’ve eaten at all the local Thai restaurants. I’ll re (and rere) visit some before I post my impressions, but thought I’d try to give an idea of part of what my subjective tastes are based on and share a few general observations. Thank you for your indulgence.
Thai cuisine is based on notions of contrasting, layered flavors; salty, sweet, sour, bitter and (pepper) hot. While Chinese and Indian cultures like having different dishes emphasizing each flavor at a meal, Thais like to have multiple flavors in each dish. For me, it’s important that a dish has some contrast and is not just “one note.” Although not as much as Indian, Thai cuisine builds flavor layers by addition of different spices and pastes at different times. There should be distinct hints of those tastes. We are most familiar with Thai coconut milk based curries in which a prepared paste is added to the milk before, during or after the cooking of the protein. Heat is often a property of how much paste is added; if you order it too mild, you’ll lose flavor. But few of us can handle “Thai hot.” If asked, I’ll order medium-hot, but am always interested in the heat level served without specific request. Of course, it takes repeated visits to learn how hot hot is at a given restaurant. Thai meals usually consist of several small plates (often called salads), perhaps a noodle dish a/o soup, a sautéed dish (Pad/Pud) and a curry.
Thai and all other “ethnic” restaurants adapt to their customer base. This manifests in cookie-cutter menus where restaurants lists the same items (this is endemic with Indian and Chinese restaurants too). Sometimes what is served bears little resemblance to the traditional dish. And sadly, some places take advantage of our ignorance of the cuisine by serving something entirely different then the dish listed (if a green curry isn’t a vibrant green, it’s an imposter). Also, many restaurants do not include all the ingredients listed on the menu. I assume we all want to get what we order and how we order it. There are several Thai dialects and many words are pronounced (and certainly transliterated) differently.
The best single reference on Thai cuisine that I have seen is “Cracking the Coconut” by Su-Mei Yu
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:50:48 GMT -5
Sawasdee Thai restaurant 4008 St. Elmo Ave. Entering from the parking lot on St Elmo Ave., Sawasdee is a warm and unpretentious room. Minimal decorations separate a waiting area from the tables. The colors are muted red and green, the lighting soft. Tables are in the main room and several alcoves, at least one of which has a low table. Appetizers ($3.75-5.25) include Satay and the usual fried offerings. Unique is Tod Mun Kao, a corn fritter from a small island off the south coast of Thailand. Traditionally, corn and flour are combined with red curry paste and a green vegetable and fried. I could detect no curry or green in Sawasdee’s version. In fact, the corn seemed bound with tamarind and was somewhat sticky and sweet. There are several “salads”($6.25-8.75) including Larb/Laab . The Som Yum (Tumm) is made with shredded cabbage and carrot rather then papaya. These dishes offer a lighter, bright set of flavors to contrast other dishes, but there does not seem to be much variety in how they are dressed. Green, red and Panang curries are offered ($8.50-9.25) The Panang, named after the Malaysian city south of Thailand was nicely flavored with ginger and garlic, but was missing any zing from lime leaves (there were none) or the texture of ground peanuts. The color indicated the use of tamarind . Haw Moak is listed as a curry, but it departs from classic recipes in which the meat, usually fish, is steamed in banana leaf. With the curry, we had the Pad Ped Horapa with seafood ($10.75). It arrived at table only warm, an indication it had been cooked first. The fact that it was on a cool plate only lessened the temperature. Listed as being sautéed with bean paste, chili and basil, it was quite bland; little chili or bean paste and no basil. The mixed seafood was of inferior quality, the squid being particularly tough. On another occasion we had Pud/Pad Talay, sautéed mix seafood, which was more successful with brighter flavors and better quality seafood. Other stir fried dishes ($6.25-9.25) run the gamut of typical selections. The Pud/Pad Khing had hints of ginger (but no visible pieces) and white instead of the listed Chinese black mushrooms. Our server did not ask our spiciness preference; our dishes were mildly spicy. After we declined more drinks and desert, she disappeared and had to be beckoned to get our check. Sawasdee is a neighborhood and tourist restaurant, and apparently caters to those clientele. The darker flavors and spicing reflect its southern/Malaysian influences. I find it lacking in vivid contrasts of flavor and texture. Sawasdee ReReview
The time-worn room reeked of old cooking oil. The single server, aside from the owner, was overwhelmed by the number of guests. We were repeatedly interrogated by the owner re: our capacity for hot/sour/spicy and essentially had to defend our selections. During and after ordering we were told that three of our selections were not available. Another table had a fourth dish declared MIA. This on an early Saturday evening. Service itself consisted of dealing dishes and napkins like cards from the head of the table without identifying dishes. Items were passed over peoples’ heads across table. Food was unattractively plopped on plates without garnish or care for presentation. Fresh flavors were absent, with no evidence of any cilantro, chilies or lemon grass. Flavors were bland, muddled and muddy with no distinct senses of sweet/sour/spicy/salty/tart. The “green” curry was horribly over-salted and had no distinct flavor. Meats were consistently tough as if they had been previously cooked and merely reheated in a sauce. Irregular chunks of meat -clumps of chicken in the Larb- ( and huge chunks of veggies in the bland Spring Rolls) indicated poor knife skills and lack of attention/concern for detail. Portions were barely adequate for the price.
A case can be made that Sawasdee represents “home style” cooking. Certainly it is not professional/restaurant quality. But “home style” cooks range from the sublime to the execrable-think of the variation in cooking skills in your extended family. Sawasdee is not a good representation of the qualities that make Thai cuisine so delicious and intriguing. It is mediocre at best.
Ambiance: Poor Service: Poor Food: Fair Value: Poor
ssmynkint 9-Apr, 2012
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:52:29 GMT -5
Rain Thai Bistro 6933 Lee hwy. Rain has an impressive façade. One is greeted in an attractive foyer and offered seating in the large bar area with tables, some wood paneling and wall fountains (the Rain) or the restaurant with a line of booths leading to the open kitchen. The bar tables are small and wobbly. A table set for three could barely contain food for two. On another occasion, two tables had to be pushed together to accommodate the food (which necessitated getting up to reach the dishes on the far side). The bar area can be uncomfortably LOUD. The booths are comfortable. Service is friendly, but slow, especially if the bartender is also serving. We were not offered or given second glasses of wine or water. Rain has an extensive list of sushi/sashimi. So extensive I wonder how they can keep such a large inventory of fresh seafood. Perhaps a sushi maven can enlighten me. However, the Thai portion of the menu has pale yellow print on pale grey background, making it unpleasantly difficult to read. Appetizers ($7-11) run the gamut from adequate satay and chicken filled steamed dumplings to the ubiquitous egg/spring rolls. The vegetarian basil rolls were filled with shredded lettuce, a strip or two of cucumber and a single basil leaf. Their tastelessness was not enhanced by the soy sauce dip that was served instead the chili plum sauce. The usual soups are available as are a few salads ($7-14). The Talay (seafood) Salad contained previously frozen shrimp, squid and scallops and some shelled mussels which hadn’t seen their homes in some time. The squid was chewy and tough and there was no evident lemongrass or chili. The decorative cilantro sprig was flaccid. The Spicy Basil Chicken ($12) had basil, but little spice ( I saw no fresh chilies.) The Pad Pik King ($12) had fuller, brighter flavors with noticeable tastes of fish sauce and lime. The Masamam (Muslim) Curry ($13) not only lacked heat, but did not have the complexity of spices and herbs for which the dish is known. Gone missing was the cashew garnish. This could have been nothing more then coconut milk laced with a bit of commercial red curry paste. Although an assortment (4) of condiments was provided, there were no fresh herbs or chilies. The only chili was canned jalapeño. None enhanced the dishes. I’ve yet to have a dish at Rain that I really liked or thought was impressively executed; I’ve had several disappointing dishes. I am interested in hearing what experiences others have had with Rain’s sushi
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:53:46 GMT -5
Mama’s Thai Kitchen 4330 Ringgold Rd.
Mama’s is a nondescript space in a small, older strip mall. The white walls have a few small framed pictures, but are otherwise devoid of decoration. The ornamental fountain/fishpond leaked, and Mama would mop between orders. Mismatched tables and chairs did nothing to make the room inviting. Our occidental waitress had difficulty with the menu (point and repeat was necessary). When I suggested that it might be easier if the dishes were numbered, she allowed that it wouldn’t help her. I fear she was right. Her services was minimal, but timely, although I would prefer not to have had her call across the room, “You guys alright?” Mama’s has a lunch hot bar with 1 serve or all-you-can-eat options ($5-$8). It is not self-serve. The presentation did nothing to encourage trying, although it would have been a way to sample several dishes. Appetizers ($2-$5) are mainly fried, an exception being the Asian sausage plate. The Blanket Shrimp was an egg roll skin, filled with large flavorful pieces of shrimp and fried. The typical Tom Yam and Tom Kha soups are available as are noodle soups ($4-$6). The Yum Clear Noodles with ground pork ($7) was bland, the flavor coming from the onions, scallions and peanuts. There was no sauce/dressing to speak of. The pork had been poorly chopped by hand and was in unattractive clumps. The usual currys are available ($7). The ginger curry chicken (Prik Khing) had no discernable fresh ginger or the promised lemon leaves although kaffir lime leaves would have been a more authentic ingredient to omit. There was no spiciness or heat in any dish. If you are in the area and MUST have Thai for lunch, you might consider Mama’s. Otherwise, a little travel gives you much better options.
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:55:06 GMT -5
Sweet Basil 5845 Brainerd Rd Given the recent Dine Out Dinner, this will be, at best, preaching to the choir and at worst, redundant. I beg your indulgence. With the demise of Royal Thai, Sweet Basil is arguably the most up-scale local Thai restaurant. The single room is open, bright and inviting. All tables and booths are mutually visible and there is a community-like feel when the room is full. Service is unfailingly friendly and efficient. The menu offers the familiar and the less common. The somewhat limited offerings allow a better focus on what is served. Appetizers ($3.75-6.50) run the usual gamut, but with two different satays and fish cakes. Soups by the cup or hot pot ($3.25-8.50) are the old standards. Noodle dishes ($10.50-11.95) are limited, but the Pad Thai is a particularly clean, bright version with a nice “bite” of lime and subtle sweetness. Salads ($5.95-9.50) may offer the best exposure to the type available locally, each with a different and refreshing dressing. Chicken, pork beef and green papaya salads are offered, the latter being especially good and traditional. While shrimp and squid salads aren’t listed, I suspect the kitchen would be happy to oblige. A full range of curries and stir-fried dishes are served, and the curries have clear levels of flavor and multidimensionality. Recently, the red and green curries reflected their respective chili bases, and each had a hint of nutmeg. The Panang and Masaman have real depth of flavor and spicing. Among the Chef’s Specials ($13.50-17.95) are two duck dishes, a traditional catfish in basil pepper-corn sauce, perhaps the best mixed seafood dish in town (brightly flavored light brown sauce with basil) and a spectacular whole fried fish with three sauces. While there are several dishes on the lunch menu that are not on the dinner list, a dinner portion will be made on request and the Pad Pak Tofu is particularly worth while. Heat varies a bit depending on who is in the kitchen, but the 1-4 pepper rating system is accurate (get at least 2 peppers). Condiments of ground pepper and pepper paste are served, and you can request fresh chopped chilies. I have almost eaten my way thru the menu, and the consistency and quality are commendable. And no, I have no personal or business connections with the restaurant
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 12:56:50 GMT -5
Thai Garden 685 Battlefield Pkwy. Ft. Oglethorpe The Garden is set back from the Parkway in an inauspicious strip mall. I was taken aback on entering by the ornate Chinese ceiling tiles, wall “murals,” and Chinese television shows on the big screen; not an elephant or picture of the royal family in sight! But I remembered Gerard’s comments about the many incarnations of the Garden and felt more at Om. The lady of the house greeted us effusively, but with limited English (her young daughter translated for her exchange with another customer). Booths were comfortable. House was clean. Appetizers ($4-6) include Satay, Spring Rolls and the usual fried suspects. Soups, in different sizes, ($5-9) are variations on Tom Kha (spicy, sour, sweet with coconut milk) and Tom Yum/Yam (spicy, tart, sour) plus Won Ton and a dinner version of Tom Yam with mixed seafood ($13). Curries (Gang/Keang), red, green, Ga-Rhee/Kari- Indian, Panang, Mussa-muhn/Massamam-Muslim, and Pineapple are $7-13 depending on meat. The Ga-Rhee was full flavored with discernable spices and enough heat at “Spicy” level to be satisfying. The paste, made with turmeric, Indian curry powder and shrimp paste nicely emphasized the good quality shrimp. Stir-fries (Pad) ($7-13) run the usual gamut. The Pad Khing (ginger) with pork had tart flavors of lime, a little mellowing from shrimp sauce and real brightness from an abundance of fresh ginger. Noodles ($7-13) include two noodle “soups” and Chow Mein. The Pad Thai was a serviceable rendition, perhaps a little heavy with tamarind paste and missing the tart contrast of lime. Seafood ($13) is represented by deep fried trout in various sauces and three dishes with the ubiquitous seafood mix. The Panang Seafood was alright although the coconut milk based curry was a bit bland, lacking ginger and peanuts. The seafood was acceptable with the squid being tendered then many. Vegetarian dishes ($7) are meatless versions of other items. The Pla Sam-Ros feature cubes of to-fu wrapped in seaweed. Although it was not “fried until outside is crispy“, it was an interesting contrast with a significant sea flavor supported by ginger and a light shrimp paste based sauce. Very nice dish. Appearances aside, Garden offers good variety and quality at a reasonable price. While perhaps not worth a special trip, it is a treat if you are in the area.
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Post by Warkitty on Sept 20, 2010 15:18:36 GMT -5
Thanks, and please keep reviewing these. I the one's we've visited in common I've similar opinions, so I've a baseline of trust in your opinions of those we've not had common experience in.
Will you be reviewing Korean and Vietnamese as well?
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 20, 2010 16:02:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the feedback. Couldn't get Thai Smile to paste, but it's coming. Be glad to do Korean and Vietnamese, tho I'm only aware of one of each. I'd do Chinese, but refuse to go to a buffet. More anon.
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Post by Warkitty on Sept 20, 2010 16:06:15 GMT -5
yeah, I only know of one each as well, but might as well post what ya think of 'em!
(I won't do Chinese buffet either. After the traditional Chinese (Cantonese) wedding feast and a few things from mightejoe, I'm spoiled. Almost never eat Chinese in a restaurant anymore. It's unrecognizable as Chinese.)
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TNBear
Senior Forumite
Posts: 2,285
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Post by TNBear on Sept 20, 2010 19:12:11 GMT -5
I ate at Rain just a week or so ago and ordered the Panang Curry with a heat level of medium. I enjoyed the meal quite a bit. I found the spice heat to be stimulating but not overpowering, allowing the other flavors to present themselves. To my taste, while not excellent, it was very good. I have to admit that if I could afford it I would eat nothing but sushi here as it is the best in town at this time IMHO.
It's been some time since I have eaten at Sweet Basil, I felt that they went through a phase several years ago where the food was not up to par at all. It's hard to get back into going to a restaurant where this happens. I'll have to try it again.
My only visit to Sawasdee was soon after they opened. I enjoyed the meal then but I'm sure that much has changed over the years.
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Post by fftspam on Sept 21, 2010 1:26:46 GMT -5
Thank you for a FULL description of your meals and experiences, unlike another restaurant reviewer that gets posted here. Im not Thai so I have no idea of what authentic Thai food tastes like. But, I do have some favorites at some of the local joints you mentioned... In order.. #1 Chili Chicken or Larb Chicken at St Elmo Thai. #2 Pad Thai at Thai Garden Ft. Oglethorpe Thai. #3 Panang Curry at Sweet Basil Brainerd Rd Thai. #4 Basil Chicken at Market Street Thai Smile 3. (hit or miss, I rarely eat there) Rain? Ive only been once. It was good but as Ive only been once, I can not say ya or nay. My only impression was I could got get the same food elsewhere for a third less and not having to pay the overhead. Mama's Thai? I pulled into an parking lot one day around 1215 and sat for 30 minutes and no one walked in to an already empty restaurant. I don't eat in empty restaurants just like I don't eat seafood in North Dakota. It may be good.. But in East Ridge? Im curious on your opinion of Old Saigon on Hwy 153 behind Aldi, Rush and Moes. Ive only been once and it was very good.
A funny story about Sweet Basil... They open for dinner at 5. I opened the door at 5:02 one day and Dave Matthews was absolutely blasting on the music system. The Thai staff scrambled and then the music switched to ambiance background music. I was fine with Dave Matthews.
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Post by ssmynkint on Sept 21, 2010 7:15:53 GMT -5
Thai Smile 3
219 Market St
Located in the old bus barn with it’s entrance adjacent to a dumpster, approaching Smile is a bit fraught. Things improve upon entering; with an exposed brick wall and open ceiling with steel beams and ventilation, the room has some feel of industrial chic. There are the typical gilded Thai wall “murals,” mirrors and, instead of the royal family, Buddhist portraiture. Seating is mainly booths with a few tables.
Service has always been attentive, friendly and solicitous. On every visit I’ve seen the chef/cook come out to schmooze with clientele when time permitted.
Appetizers ($3-7) are familiar: spring roll, to fu, satay, etc. Noteworthy is the fish cake (tod man pla). The cake is firm and springy with a mild yet discernable fish flavor. Red curry paste and green bean pieces are clearly in evidence. Served with traditional cucumber “pickle”, it a lovely dish and perhaps the best version I’ve had.
Soups are the typical two plus won ton ($4.50-5). There are a variety of salads ($6-8, $11 for dinner size), some of which (Larb, Num Sod, Nam Tok) are listed as entrees. These are nicely representative of the light, bright contrasts of layers of flavor and textures which are benchmarks of Thai cuisine.
There is a good crispy duck ($17) as a house special. Sadly the seafood appears to have been frozen. This doesn’t effect the shrimp or fish much, but the Deep Sea (Talay Pad) and soft shell crab suffer a result.
The curries ($12-15) are very well done; the yellow speaks of the Indian spices in the paste and the Panang is the best version I’ve had locally, with ground peanuts enriching the sauce which is not overwhelmed by coconut milk. Entrees ( different Pad or stir-fried dishes, $11-15 at dinner) are accurately described on the menu; the ginger is gingery, the black pepper and garlic and basil dishes taste of the named ingredient. Again, there are good contrasts; they don’t all taste the same.
Portions are generous enough, and medium heat is a two napkin affair (extra paper napkins are left on table). A limited but appropriate list of wines and beers is available.
Does anyone know what happened to Smiles 1 & 2? (14-Apr, 10)
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Post by aviator on Sept 23, 2010 9:53:23 GMT -5
Very nice reviews and spot on from my exp. Like somebody else wanted, I would like your review of Old saigon.
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